Terrine de Sud (Southern-US Terrine)

This redux of the earlier country terrine adds a little Southern flair. I've included the whole recipe, with the few variations that make it more Deep South, USA than french. Note the ingredients are the only switch here...the method remains untouched.

Most of these substitutes are not a far stretch of the imagination: they're very good equivalents, but more practical for a cook who's in the US. They embrace the local flavor, rather than being a compromise of geography. For example, use a nice bourbon, such as Evan Williams single barrel, so that you use something of similar quality to the Cognac that the recipe originally used. Cheaper bourbons tend to be more heavy-handed with their oak chip infusions, so only use that if you want a strong oak presence in your terrine. Otherwise, play it safe and use a bourbon that you would savor neat.

Dill has replaced the thyme, and again this is owing to availability and seasonality. The local CSA provided us with some beautiful fresh dill this week, so it has been fun incorporating that in several different dishes. Together with the bay leaf and allspice here, dill forms an aromatic base for the other ingredients. It's in the background and not a dominating ingredient.

Terrine de Sud
(makes 1 1/2 - 2 loaf pan terrines)

1/2 cup finely chopped baby leeks (about 3 leeks), white and light green parts only, and/or Vidalia onion
1 Tbsp. butter
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1/2 Tbsp. chopped fresh dill
1/2 Tbsp. kosher salt
1/2 Tbsp. black peppercorns
1/4 tsp. whole allspice or 1/8 teaspoon ground allspice
1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1/2 Turkish or 1/4 California bay leaf
1/4 cup heavy cream
1 large eggs
1 1/2 tablespoons bourbon
1/4 lb chicken livers, trimmed
1/4 lb ground fatty pork shoulder
1/4 lb ground beef
1/4 lb baked ham (1/2-inch slice), cut into 1/2-inch cubes
12 collard leaves, stems removed, blanched briefly

Cook onion in butter in a 10-inch heavy skillet, covered, over moderately low heat, stirring frequently, until soft, about 10 minutes. Add garlic and thyme and cook, stirring, 1 minute. Transfer to a large bowl set in a bowl of ice.
While onion cools, pulse salt, peppercorns, allspice, nutmeg, and bay leaf in grinder until finely ground. Add to onion mixture and whisk in cream, eggs, and brandy until combined well.

Pulse chicken livers in a food processor until finely chopped, then add to onion mixture along with ground pork and veal and mix together well with your hands or a wooden spoon. Stir in ham cubes.

Line bottom and long sides of terrine mold crosswise with about 6 chard leaves, arranging them close together (but not overlapping) and leaving a 1/2- to 2-inch overhang. Fill terrine evenly with ground-meat mixture, rapping terrine on counter to compact it (it will mound slightly above edge). Cover top of terrine lengthwise with 2 or 3 more chard leaves if necessary to cover completely, and fold overhanging ends of bacon back over these. Cover terrine with plastic wrap and chill at least 8 (and no more than 24) hours to marinate meats.

When ready to bake, put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 325°F. Discard the plastic wrap and cover terrine tightly with a double layer of foil.

Bake terrine in a water bath until thermometer inserted diagonally through foil at least 2 inches into center of terrine registers 155 to 160°F, 1 3/4 to 2 hours. Remove foil and let terrine stand in mold on a rack, 30 minutes.

Weight terrine:
Put terrine in mold in a cleaned baking pan. Put a piece of parchment or wax paper over top of terrine, then place on top of parchment another same-size terrine mold or a piece of wood or heavy cardboard cut to fit inside mold and wrapped in foil. Put 2 to 3 (1-pound) cans on terrine or on wood or cardboard to weight cooked terrine. Chill terrine in pan with weights until completely cold, at least 4 hours. Continue to chill terrine, with or without weights, at least 24 hours to allow flavors to develop.

To serve:
Stand the mold in a pan with 1 inch of hot water (to loosen bottom) 2 minutes. Run a knife around the sides to loosen completely before turning out. Tip the terrine mold (holding terrine) to drain excess liquid, then invert a cutting board over terrine, reinvert terrine onto cutting board, and gently wipe outside of terrine (bacon strips) with a paper towel. Let terrine stand at room temperature for 30 minutes before serving, then transfer to a platter if desired and cut, as needed, into 1/2-inch-thick slices.

Serve with cornichons, crostini, and strong mustard.