Friday, July 27, 2007

White Gazpacho

My father, who was recently visiting, had commented on an exquisite gazpacho that he had tried on his travels in the US. His was the traditional red variety, but credit goes to him for getting this particular idea rolling. I hadn't been thinking much about gazpacho until then.

This recipe was amalgamated after sifting through the many variations of white gazpacho that appeared in Food and Wine last year, as well as the few from Gourmet's archives (epicurious.com). There's such a fragrant array of ingredients in a classic white gazpacho: green grapes, cucumber, and toasted Marcona almonds. I didn't have white bread on hand to use, so I improvised with okara instead. As a corollary, the okara worked extremely well, but for authenticity I would favour using bread if you have that on hand in the first place.

White Gazpacho
(serves 4)

8 slices country bread
3 cups ice water
3 tablespoons sliced almonds
1 clove garlic
3/4 pound seedless green grapes
3 tablespoons white wine vinegar
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
Salt and white pepper
Some jalapeno, to taste, seeded and diced
1/2 cucumber, peeled, seeded and diced
preparation

Lightly toast 5 slices of bread. Remove the crusts then set the bread aside to soften in 1 cup of water. Lightly toast the almonds in a small skillet over medium-low heat until golden, about 7 minutes. Transfer the almonds to a food processor add the garlic and pulse until the almonds are finely ground. Squeeze the bread as dry as possible and add it, and about one-third of the grapes to the almonds. Process until the mixture is smooth.

Transfer the bread mixture to a bowl and gradually beat in first the vinegar, then 1/2 cup of the oil. Beat in the remaining two cups of water then strain the gazpacho through a fine sieve, forcing as much of the bread mixture through as possible. Season the gazpacho with salt and a pinch of cayenne and refrigerate until the soup is well chilled, at least one hour.

Quarter the remaining grapes, and dice the reserved cucumber. Serve the gazpacho in bowls topped with the diced accompaniments.

Friday, July 13, 2007

Zucchini Salad with Pine Nuts, Mint, and Chevre



This has become a Summertime favourite in my kitchen. The combination of garden-fresh zucchini (courgette), chevre, and lightly toasted pine nuts is phenomenal. I make this dish several times a year, mostly in quick succession during the months of June and July, when zucchini vines are heavy with their fruit.

Salting the zucchini is important here. It loosens up the noodle-like threads by drawing out moisture, making each mouthful more delightful (read: manageable) to eat. Pair this with a grassy New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, such as Saint Claire, and you have another easy Summer meal on your hands.

Zucchini Salad
(serves 4)

6 medium zucchini, trimmed
200g goats' cheese, crumbled
1/4 cup pine nuts, toasted
sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons roughly chopped or torn mint leaves
juice of 1 lemon
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Cut the zucchini flesh into long, thin strips, avoiding the seeds. This can be done quickly with a special julienne-style peeler or mandolin, or carefully with a sharp knife. Place the zucchini strips, goats' cheese and pine nuts in a salad bowl and season them with salt and pepper. Combine dressing ingredients, pour over salad and toss well. Check and adjust the seasoning if necessary.


Again, Cuisine Magazine is to thank for the recipe and photo.

Tuesday, July 10, 2007

Swiss Chard Tart (Tourte des Blettes)



This recipe is a classic in the Comte de Nice, where swiss chard is a popular ingredient. I was fascinated with the alternative use of swiss chard in the dessert course, and had to try it as soon as I could find some good local chard to do it justice. This creates a beautiful rustic tart, lightly sweetened and spiced.

Rather than make a double-crust, as the original recipe specified, I decided to make it galette style, meaning open-faced. I've left the ingredients in their original quantities, but the method only calls for rolling out half the dough. Reserve the other half for another use (it will freeze well, rolled out in a pie dish), or go ahead and try the double-crusted version. You'll want to use a beaten egg wash on the top crust, so that you get a beautiful glazed finish.

Apple and Swiss Chard Tart
(makes one 11” tart)

For the shortcrust pastry:
3 cups plus 2 Tbsp (400 g) plain flour
1 cup (250 g) unsalted butter
1 egg yolk
4 Tbsp (80 g) superfine sugar
about 3 Tbsp (45 mls) water
For the filling:
8 swiss chard leaves, stems removed, leaves washed and shredded
1/4 cup (100 g) soft brown sugar
2 eggs
1/3 cup (60 g) golden raisins macerated in 3 Tbsp (45 mls) dark rum
3.5 oz (100 g) pine nuts
3 tsp (40 mls) brandy
pinch pepper
1 Tbsp (15 mls) light olive oil
1 Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored, and sliced
Make the crust first, following the usual method. Let the pastry rest for at least 30 minutes before rolling out.
Preheat the oven to 400 F (200 C).
In a bowl, combine the brown sugar and eggs. Add the raisins, drained rum, the pine nuts, brandy, pepper, and olive oil. Stir everything well, then add the chard leaves.
To assemble the tart, line to the base of a 11” (28 cm) tart tin, roll out half of the pastry and place in the tin. Spread the filling on top. Tuck edges inside the pastry coming up from the base layer, and neaten edges as you please.
Bake for 45-50 minutes, or until cooked through and rich brown on top.